Chef and BHS graduate Gregory Epstein opens a BBQ eatery in Winslow.
From lard cream cones to longhorns, Gregory Epstein has come a long way.
It began a few years ago, when Epstein transitioned from a more standard culinary career as an executive chef to the world of food styling, or creating inedible dishes that look good on camera.
“It’s all done by hand,” said Epstein, describing how to make a fake ice cream cone that won’t melt beneath the hot lights of a commercial shoot. “You take some Crisco and a little powdered sugar and some coloring. It can sit on the set all day long.”
These days, preferring freshness to fictitious food, he’s grilling up some “serious barbeque” at his new restauraunt on Winslow Way, Bainbridge Island Barbeque, which will open Saturday.
Operating since 2005 as a delivery-only service, BIBBQ’s new dine-in location – a homey building atop a patch of grass behind Madoka – marks a new beginning for Epstein, a Bainbridge High School graduate.
“For me, preparing food is all about poetry,” he said. “Meat. Sauce. Bun. You can add all kinds of things. But that’s the essence of a great sandwich.”
Epstein said he’s always been about great sandwiches, though his journey back to the ‘cue took longer than expected. After early success as a chef in Seattle, he ventured south to California. Along with food styling, he got into photography, shooting pro golfers and other celebrities who came through town.
What he really wanted to do, though, was cook. Eventually he did, opening a barbeque restaurant that quickly gained a loyal following.
Then things leveled off. Hoping more exposure would generate business for their beloved grill-master, concerned customers sought help from local food writers. Their requests were ignored, and Epstein decided it was time to pack up his spatula.
“I believe that life is like a timeline,” he said. “Something you wanted yesterday you might end up with tomorrow. You just have to keep moving forward with that concept.”
Not to be denied – he was turned down by his wife four times before she finally agreed to go out with him – Epstein brought his menu back home to Bainbridge.
When a building became available, he jumped at the opportunity to have his guests pull up a chair around the grill.
The restaurant is divided into a regular dining room and a sports room, where guests can have a beer or soda while they watch games on BIBBQ’s widescreen television. To add to the ambiance, Epstein has hay near the entrance and the skull of a longhorn hanging on the wall. Bathrooms look like, what else, an outhouse.
BIBBQ serves a variety of dishes, including roasted ribs and salmon, beef brisket and pulled pork sandwiches. Sides include creamy corn, Grandma Ruth’s cole slaw and Yukon Gold potato salad, among others. For those who can’t choose, Epstein created the Commuter Special – a sampling of ribs, wings, a mini-sandwich, a chicken taquito and one side – for $9.95.
Diners can choose from three different sauces – whiskey brown sugar, chipotle honey and “habanero insane.”
“I thought a lot about what people would drive long distances for,” he said. “I have a good niche here. There aren’t any other barbecue places on the island.”
The menu, like the restaurant’s hours, is still evolving, as are the sources of Epstein’s inspiration.
“I cook in my head,” he said. “I like to try to be creative and make dishes that are going to be special.”
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All fired up
Bainbridge Island Barbeque, at 251 Winslow Way West, will open its doors this Saturday. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Meals range in price from $4.25 to $15.55. Website coming soon. Call 842-RIBS or 419-RIBS for delivery.
